Article: 36 Hours in Missoula, Mont.
36 Hours, Missoula, Mont.
(copyright 2009 and 2005 Catherine Arnold)*Please note that prices/locations may be out of date.*
Kayaks top the ubiquitous 4wd Subarus here -- all the time. Independent coffee houses outnumber the single Starbucks, the best ice cream in town is huckleberry from local walk-up window The Big Dipper, the Saturday farmer’s market is the biggest social spot in town, and weekend mornings signal a run -- of tubing, kayaking, rafting -- on nearby rivers the Blackfoot and the Bitterroot. Missoula is a mountain town, but it’s no Jackson Hole, no Aspen.
One of the largest towns in the state, and home of the University of Montana’s 12,000 students, Missoula is as good a place to see the latest indie movie (at restored classic theater The Wilma) as to raft a river or dine on Buddhist-influenced Indian food. Early June is one of the best times to visit, when every day is a celebration of having shaken off winter.
Friday
7 p.m. Art Beyond Remingtons
First Fridays, the Missoula Museum of Art and more than 20 galleries, coffee shops and retail stores downtown, and museums on the nearby U of M campus, open their doors from 5 to 8 p.m. Get to know Missoulians over wine and cheese. 335 N. Pattee, 728-0447.
Saturday
9 a.m. - noon Nosh Fest
Miss the Saturday morning farmer’s market, and you’ve missed a major part of Missoula. Outside the former train depot downtown, espresso shops and local bakeries gather carts into a horseshoe where locals hang out over large, honey-laden bearclaws, sweetbuns, dense breads and strong coffee. If you’re open to meeting strangers, you could run into potential hiking partners here; Missoulians are spontaneous and friendly, particularly in outdoor matters. Circle Square, 543-4238.
11 a.m. Booking a Break
Browse at Shakespeare & Co., a low-key bookstore named for the Paris shop, that features sophisticated selections from literary fiction, Montana and Western authors, outdoors-oriented as well as urban fare. Owner Garth Whitson, who plays guitar in a local rockabilly band, organizes author readings by edgy scribes like Steve Earle. 103 S. 3rd St. W., 549-9010.
12 p.m. Chili and Chat
If you don’t mind cigarette smoke, The Dinosaur Cafe, in the back of Charlie B’s bar, dishes up good, cheap chili, a handful of Saltines, and conversation with pre-gentrification Missoula regulars: from writers to veterans of local ranching or mining operations. 428 N. Higgins, 721-9346.
1 p.m. Catch a wave
10,000 Waves, a raft and kayak expedition company, will take you down one of the nearby rivers (Blackfoot, Bitterroot, or Clark Fork), giving you a better idea of the Missoula view of the world: from a river at least part of the time. 1311 E. Broadway, 800-537-8315 or 406-549-6670.
6 p.m. Enlightened Dinner
Tipu’s Tiger is a light-filled, Buddhist-influenced restaurant that serves a wide selection of Indian-influenced vegetarian food. Cardamom, saffron almond or chai ice creams from Big Dipper are after-dinner treats. 115 1/2 S. 4th St. W., 542-0622.
9 p.m. Hoof It To the Beat
At the cavernous Union Hall Co., grab a pool table while you wait for one of the bands that play here. Sweet ‘n Lowdown, for instance, take up considerable stage space with their 13 musicians creating a lively, innovative fusion of rock, blues and roots music. The place gets packed. 208 E. Main, 728-7980
Sunday
9 a.m. No “V8” Necessary
At The Raven Cafe, breakfast includes omelets, other egg dishes, many vegetarian and a few meat selections, and quiche. “Veggie browns,” a variation on hash browns, are steamed vegetables laid over herb roasted potatoes, topped by Monterey Jack, cheddar and spicy sprouts. 130 E. Broadway, 829-8188.
10:30 a.m. Hit the Trail
Hike in the Rattlesnake Recreation Area, the formidably named, but considerably less intimidating large woodland area that borders town, which is crossed by a rushing creek. Follow Van Buren St. to Rattlesnake Dr., about 2.5 mi. The main trailhead is on Sawmill Gulch Road. 329-3814
1 p.m. Re-fueling
Good, light soups and salads at Catalyst Espresso include house versions of fresh tomato, lime and tortilla, and one or two other soups daily, and four good salads including one with baby greens, gorgonzola, walnuts and dried cherries.
111 N. Higgins Ave., 542-1337.
2 p.m. Best Scoop in Town
Don’t leave town without trying a scoop at Big Dipper. El Salvador coffee, honey porter and huckleberry are among about 20 flavors always available.
631 S. Higgins, 543-5722.
THE BASICS
How to Get to Missoula
Visitors to Missoula can fly into Missoula International Airport. Airport Shuttle is available at 543-9416 , although most motels and hotels provide free shuttles.
Gibson Mansion B&B is from the early 1900s and has a library, parlor, grand oak staircase and verandah. Its four rooms are $99-149. All have private baths, a morning tray with coffee and scones, and full breakfast. www.gibsonmansion.com
823 39th St., 251-1345
Goldsmith’s Inn, a 1911 Victorian brick house, sits on the banks of the Clark Fork River, next to the Lewis & Clark river walking trail and across a footbridge from the University of Montana campus. Four of the seven rooms have balcony views; prices are $94-$144. www.goldsmithsinn.com, 809 E. Front St., 728-1585
Holiday Inn Express Riverside’s 95 rooms include breakfast, high-speed Internet access and a fitness center. They are $105 for king or two queens, $149 for balcony suites facing the Clark Fork River.
The Wilma movie theater sells beer and wine at its concession stand. The Wilma, 131 S. Higgins Ave., 728-2521.
(copyright 2009 and 2005 Catherine Arnold)*Please note that prices/locations may be out of date.*
Kayaks top the ubiquitous 4wd Subarus here -- all the time. Independent coffee houses outnumber the single Starbucks, the best ice cream in town is huckleberry from local walk-up window The Big Dipper, the Saturday farmer’s market is the biggest social spot in town, and weekend mornings signal a run -- of tubing, kayaking, rafting -- on nearby rivers the Blackfoot and the Bitterroot. Missoula is a mountain town, but it’s no Jackson Hole, no Aspen.
One of the largest towns in the state, and home of the University of Montana’s 12,000 students, Missoula is as good a place to see the latest indie movie (at restored classic theater The Wilma) as to raft a river or dine on Buddhist-influenced Indian food. Early June is one of the best times to visit, when every day is a celebration of having shaken off winter.
Friday
7 p.m. Art Beyond Remingtons
First Fridays, the Missoula Museum of Art and more than 20 galleries, coffee shops and retail stores downtown, and museums on the nearby U of M campus, open their doors from 5 to 8 p.m. Get to know Missoulians over wine and cheese. 335 N. Pattee, 728-0447.
Saturday
9 a.m. - noon Nosh Fest
Miss the Saturday morning farmer’s market, and you’ve missed a major part of Missoula. Outside the former train depot downtown, espresso shops and local bakeries gather carts into a horseshoe where locals hang out over large, honey-laden bearclaws, sweetbuns, dense breads and strong coffee. If you’re open to meeting strangers, you could run into potential hiking partners here; Missoulians are spontaneous and friendly, particularly in outdoor matters. Circle Square, 543-4238.
11 a.m. Booking a Break
Browse at Shakespeare & Co., a low-key bookstore named for the Paris shop, that features sophisticated selections from literary fiction, Montana and Western authors, outdoors-oriented as well as urban fare. Owner Garth Whitson, who plays guitar in a local rockabilly band, organizes author readings by edgy scribes like Steve Earle. 103 S. 3rd St. W., 549-9010.
12 p.m. Chili and Chat
If you don’t mind cigarette smoke, The Dinosaur Cafe, in the back of Charlie B’s bar, dishes up good, cheap chili, a handful of Saltines, and conversation with pre-gentrification Missoula regulars: from writers to veterans of local ranching or mining operations. 428 N. Higgins, 721-9346.
1 p.m. Catch a wave
10,000 Waves, a raft and kayak expedition company, will take you down one of the nearby rivers (Blackfoot, Bitterroot, or Clark Fork), giving you a better idea of the Missoula view of the world: from a river at least part of the time. 1311 E. Broadway, 800-537-8315 or 406-549-6670.
6 p.m. Enlightened Dinner
Tipu’s Tiger is a light-filled, Buddhist-influenced restaurant that serves a wide selection of Indian-influenced vegetarian food. Cardamom, saffron almond or chai ice creams from Big Dipper are after-dinner treats. 115 1/2 S. 4th St. W., 542-0622.
9 p.m. Hoof It To the Beat
At the cavernous Union Hall Co., grab a pool table while you wait for one of the bands that play here. Sweet ‘n Lowdown, for instance, take up considerable stage space with their 13 musicians creating a lively, innovative fusion of rock, blues and roots music. The place gets packed. 208 E. Main, 728-7980
Sunday
9 a.m. No “V8” Necessary
At The Raven Cafe, breakfast includes omelets, other egg dishes, many vegetarian and a few meat selections, and quiche. “Veggie browns,” a variation on hash browns, are steamed vegetables laid over herb roasted potatoes, topped by Monterey Jack, cheddar and spicy sprouts. 130 E. Broadway, 829-8188.
10:30 a.m. Hit the Trail
Hike in the Rattlesnake Recreation Area, the formidably named, but considerably less intimidating large woodland area that borders town, which is crossed by a rushing creek. Follow Van Buren St. to Rattlesnake Dr., about 2.5 mi. The main trailhead is on Sawmill Gulch Road. 329-3814
1 p.m. Re-fueling
Good, light soups and salads at Catalyst Espresso include house versions of fresh tomato, lime and tortilla, and one or two other soups daily, and four good salads including one with baby greens, gorgonzola, walnuts and dried cherries.
111 N. Higgins Ave., 542-1337.
2 p.m. Best Scoop in Town
Don’t leave town without trying a scoop at Big Dipper. El Salvador coffee, honey porter and huckleberry are among about 20 flavors always available.
631 S. Higgins, 543-5722.
THE BASICS
How to Get to Missoula
Visitors to Missoula can fly into Missoula International Airport. Airport Shuttle is available at 543-9416 , although most motels and hotels provide free shuttles.
Gibson Mansion B&B is from the early 1900s and has a library, parlor, grand oak staircase and verandah. Its four rooms are $99-149. All have private baths, a morning tray with coffee and scones, and full breakfast. www.gibsonmansion.com
823 39th St., 251-1345
Goldsmith’s Inn, a 1911 Victorian brick house, sits on the banks of the Clark Fork River, next to the Lewis & Clark river walking trail and across a footbridge from the University of Montana campus. Four of the seven rooms have balcony views; prices are $94-$144. www.goldsmithsinn.com, 809 E. Front St., 728-1585
Holiday Inn Express Riverside’s 95 rooms include breakfast, high-speed Internet access and a fitness center. They are $105 for king or two queens, $149 for balcony suites facing the Clark Fork River.
The Wilma movie theater sells beer and wine at its concession stand. The Wilma, 131 S. Higgins Ave., 728-2521.
posted by Catherine Arnold at
10:15 PM
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