- Catherine Arnold
- Contributing Writer
People who need their baguettes without wheat or their cakes sans butter are safe in the Puget Sound area.
Kaili McIntyre, who is unable to digest the gluten in ordinary bread because of a disease called celiac, is certainly glad to be in Western Washington. She owns the gluten-free Da Vinci Cafe & Bakery, in Seattle's Greenwood area.
Other local manufacturers of medically oriented food products include Seattle-based Ener-G Foods Inc., which bills itself as the nation's largest manufacturer of foods for special diets; Woodinville-based Mona's Gluten-Free, which sells dry mixes; and Sammamish-based Chez Jane Inc., which makes garlic products aimed at increasing health and fighting cancer.
"The Pacific Northwest is absolutely the best area to live for getting food that doesn't give issues to people with food allergies," McIntyre says.
These businesses have sprung from a base of consumers who are unusually knowledgeable about food and health.
"Seattle is a center for consumers looking for those foods," says Trudy Bialic, spokeswoman for Seattle-based PCC Natural Markets. "Seattle has been a leader for many years, not just in nutrition, but in recognizing that food is not one-size-fits-all; that people have different needs.
"The kinds of foods that are available here you won't find in Cleveland, where I'm from," Bialic added. "Forget trying to find spelt flour, wheat-free bread (in Cleveland) -- the awareness isn't there."
Although no total sales figures are available for special dietary foods produced in the Puget Sound area, it's a market spurred by increased national awareness of food allergies, says Cynthia Kupper, executive director of the Gluten Intolerance Group of North America, based in Auburn.
Those conditions include celiac. For sufferers of this disease, wheat and gluten can cause huge digestive problems, even tumors or death. According to the Studio City, Calif.-based Celiac Disease Foundation, one in 133 Americans has the condition.
Other common food allergies include those to dairy and soy products, says Jamey Wallace, a naturopath and clinical director for Seattle's Bastyr Center for Natural Health.
"I've been a practicing naturopath for 10 years, and there is much more awareness of food allergies, and probably of celiac to a degree -- that may be why there's such an increase in available food for folks who have allergies of some kind," says Wallace.
Production in the Puget Sound area will continue to grow, Kupper says.
"I'm definitely hearing about interest in opening new manufacturing facilities or dedicated gluten-free markets in the Seattle area," she says. "It's part of a nationwide surge of growth in gluten-free products."
Ener-G Foods Inc., sells products free of gluten, wheat, egg and dairy. The company started in 1962, making low-protein foods for pre-dialysis renal patients.
Today, Ener-G calls itself the largest manufacturer and seller of foods for people on restricted diets in the United States, and has a 33,000-square-foot facility in Seattle and a 10,000-square-foot plant in Womelsdorf, Pa.
Although the company does not release sales figures, its top sellers include soy-based pretzels, breads made from tapioca and rice, respectively, and a potato- and rice-based pretzel, says Jerry Colburn, sales and marketing manager for the company.
But the special-foods industry also has room for plenty of small bakeries and other shops that start small, then ship cross-country in order to stay in business, says Kupper.
"What's happening, nationwide, is that a mom 'n' pop starts," Kupper adds. "Then, in order to survive, they ship products cross-country fresh-frozen."
Indeed, Greenwood's Da Vinci will start shipping breads, pastries and other baked goods after renovations to its 1,400-square-foot building are finished in February, says McIntyre.
McIntyre started selling gluten-free baked products in December 2001, soon after learning that she had celiac. White, potato and cinnamon breads are the best-sellers -- all made using rice flour and tapioca starch. Other products include pizza crust, fruit strudel, cinnamon rolls, scones and various cakes. McIntyre does not release her sales figures.
Contrary to popular belief, gluten-free food does not have to taste like sawdust, says McIntyre, who notes that because Da Vinci does not advertise itself as gluten-free, customers are often surprised that flaky-layered strudel and other goodies could be nontraditional.
"Even the non-gluten-free people love it," she says. "They just keep coming back."
In Woodinville, Mona's Gluten-Free is a special dietary company that, like Da Vinci, was started by a special dietary foods customer. Lisa Shaw, sometimes called "Mona" Lisa, was a longtime baker, restaurant industry employee and food enthusiast when she was diagnosed with celiac in 1989.
"I baked for the first 20 years of my life," says Shaw, "so the diagnosis was a big blow to me."
After realizing what had caused her ill health and weight loss, Shaw began experimenting, baking with rice flour and tapioca starch purchased from health food stores. When the results garnered positive reviews at food industry cocktail parties, she decided to sell her products, says Shaw.
Mona's Gluten-Free started in Shaw's basement in Victoria, British Columbia, in 2000, but in 2004 Shaw relocated the company to Woodinville.
The company sells nine dry baking mixes, all free of gluten, corn and soy. Top sellers are mixes for pancakes and waffles, and French bread.
The company's 2,000-square-foot facility produced $3,500 in shipments and $60,000 in in-store sales during 2006, says Shaw.
The specialty foods market is growing, in Seattle and nationwide.
"It's dramatic to see the new products available in stores on a monthly basis," notes Shaw. "You literally find new companies or gluten-free products springing up on a monthly basis. A lot of bigger manufacturers are labeling their products as gluten-free, because they recognize that this is a market that isn't going away."
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